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In theory you can use any type of
wood plank on a ceiling, including shiplap and other types that are normally
used for exterior siding. But those materials generally are 3/4 inch thick,
which is not only unnecessary on a ceiling but also a disadvantage due to
the weight.
Because there is no load on the planking (it just has to stay attached to
the rafters or ceiling joists), you can use thinner material that is ½ inch
thick or less. On ceilings, the standard installation has planks that
interlock with a tongue and groove. This configuration is available in a
wide variety of materials, including exotic hardwoods and plain pine. It’s
also available in different milling patterns--for example, with a small bead
next to the seam or a more elaborate combination of shapes cut into the
edges.
Several manufacturers offer packages of thin material in cedar or pine. The
individual planks are extremely flexible but firm up once you lock the
joints together and add nails. Always check the manufacturer’s installation
instructions. On some thin material you may need to add a layer of strapping
to provide more frequent support than standard rafters or ceiling joists set
16 inches on center.
On either a flat or sloped ceiling, start by ripping the grooved edge off
the first board. A solid edge generally looks better unless you plan to
cover the edge with wood trim. It’s also important to make sure that the
first board is straight, even if the wall against which it rests bows in and
out. Because the boards interlock, you need to keep them straight in order
to close the seams uniformly and tightly.
If the wall is straight, you can keep track of the boards by sighting down
their lengths, stretching a string end to end, and measuring back to the
starting edge every few courses. If the adjoining wall does bow, hold a full
piece against the wall and scribe the first edge. |
