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Drywall finishing
tools
To finish new gypsum drywall or repair damaged panels on existing walls,
you need a pair of drywall knives and a larger blade for spreading and
smoothing compound over wide seams between panels. The basics will do for
most projects, although there are specialized drywall tools such as corner
blades and swiveling sanding blocks attached to long poles so that you can
sand joint com pound more easily.
Finishing drywall
seams - Pages 1 2 3 4
Finishing drywall is one of
those jobs that get easier with practice. The more comfortable you
become with the tools and materials, the faster the finishing will go
and the better results you’ll get. For the beginner, the biggest problem
is keeping the knives clean and the compound free of any debris. The
goal is to get the smoothest possible surface after the com pound is
applied. So any impurities that are dragged across the surface will
create deep grooves that need to be sanded out once the compound is thy.
Installing backer
board
In wet areas, cement-board is
better backing for ceramic tile than regular or water-resist ant drywall as
it will not degrade if it should get wet. Although it’s usually ½ inch thick
and is installed much like drywall, it is heavier and harder to cut.
Installing drywall
The hardest part of hanging
drywall is in stalling it on the ceiling. The panels are heavy and unwieldy,
so be sure to line up some help for this job. If you have to work alone,
rent a drywall lift from a tool rental store. It costs about $40--$50 a day,
and it’s hard to find a better bargain. Once the ceiling is done, you can
also use the lift to install the top row of panels on the wall. Remember,
you can install these panels either vertically or horizontally. But the
latter makes finishing the joints much easier.
Installing
flat-panel wainscoting (1
2
3
4)
You can choose from many
different wood species when planning a flat panel wainscoting job. If
you want a high-end clear or stained finish, pick the best plywood stock
and chose hardwood lumber of the same species to go with it. But if you
plan to paint, as we did here, you can opt for less expensive materials
and still achieve a top-drawer result. We used 1/2-inch-thick birch
plywood for the fiat panels and 1x4 and 1x6 poplar for the rails and
stiles.
How to remove
wallboard
Mark the width
of the rough opening on the wall and locate the first stud on either
side of the planned rough opening. If the rough opening is more than 8"
from the next stud, use a chalk line to mark a cutting line on the
inside edge of the stud.
Paneling over
furring strips
One of the classic remodeling
jobs is to cover basement walls with wood paneling; this helps convert
unfinished space into livable space. To do this job almost always requires
installing furring strips on the foundation walls. Nailing wood strips to a
concrete (or concrete block) wall is hard work but it can go surprisingly
fast once you get started. Use 1x4 No. 2 pine boards for furring instead of
the rough 1x2 material that’s usually called furring. These boards are
almost impossible to work with. The lx4s provide plenty of nailing surface.
Paneling over
studs
High quality sheet paneling
is made of good plywood that is strong and durable. When nailed directly
to the wall studs, as we show here, you’ll have a stable surface that
looks like solid wood, at least from a couple feet away. But if you are
using cheaper, fiberboard paneling, [ in mind that this product is much
less substantial. To get a good job, install a layer of drywall
underneath. If you’d like to include some sound-deadening in a
sheet-paneled wall, then hang fiberglass bats between the studs; install
drywall over the studs; and finish up by nailing the paneling over the
drywall.
How to remove
plaster walls
Shut off the
power and inspect the wall for wiring and plumbing. Mark the
wall area to be removed by. Apply a double layer of masking tape
along the outside edge of each cutting line.
Resurfacing a wall
Resurfacing walls and
ceilings with drywall is a great way to give a facelift to an old room.
Instead of gutting a room, you just cover everything with thin drywall,
usually ¼-inch- thick panels. These are special order items and can be
hard to handle without breaking. But they are well worth the trouble.
You can either remove the room trim before installing these panels. Or
install the panels, without removing the trim, if the drywall will butt
against the trim boards instead of running over them.
Installing
solid-wood paneling
Installing solid-wood
paneling, like we show on this wainscoting project, is an easy way to
add real distinction to any room. And solid boards can fit any
decorating scheme because they look good when painted, stained, or
covered with a clear finish. The boards are usually nailed to
surface-mounted horizontal furring strips. If the combined thickness of
the furring and the boards extends too far into your room, you can
remove the drywall or plaster from the wall and nail the furring either
across the studs or between them. |
