4. To rule out a bad cord as the cause of the problem, attach the clip
of your continuity tester to one prong of the lamp’s plug; then touch
the probe first to one of the bare wires and then to the other. Do the
same test for the other prong. The tester should light up once for each
prong. If the tester never lights or lights on both wires for the same
prong, you’ll need to replace the cord. If it lights up once for each
prong, the socket is the problem.
6. Set the socket on the base of the lamp. Make sure the switch isn’t
blocked by the “harp”— the part that holds the shade on some lamps.
Slide the cardboard insulating sleeve over the socket, so the sleeve’s
notch aligns with the switch. Now slide the outer sleeve over the
socket, aligning the notch with the switch. It should snap into the base
securely. Screw in a light bulb, plug the lamp in, and test it.
5. Attach the ribbed half of the wire to the silver screw terminal on
the new socket. Attach the other wire to the brass-colored screw
terminal. If the stripped ends of the cord are frayed or blackened, cut
them off with your combination tool and strip away ¾” of insulation to
reveal clean wire.
|Here’s how to buy a
replacement socket. First, make sure it accepts the same size bulb
(you’ll be able to see this by looking). Next, if your old socket
has a twist-, push., or pull-chain-style switch, find a replacement
that has the same style. (If the socket doesn’t have a switch,
you’ll need to find a socket without one.) Finally, make sure it has
the same watt rating as the old sock et. Somewhere on the inside or
outside of the socket, you’ll find a number (between 20 and 120)
followed by a W. This is the watt rating.