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Installing backer board


In wet areas, cement-board is better backing for ceramic tile than regular or water-resist ant drywall as it will not degrade if it should get wet. Although itís usually Ĺ inch thick and is installed much like drywall, it is heavier and harder to cut.

Begin by marking the cut line on the panel and cutting the panels to size using a utility knife. Then snap the panel, and cut through the fiberglass mesh on the back of the panel. Cut faucet holes using a carbide-tipped hole saw in an electric drill. When making these cuts, it is best to make the holes slightly oversized to allow for minor adjustments when you place the panel on the wall.

Screw the panels to the studs using special cement-board screws. These should be driven Ĺ inch from the edges, and spaced every 4 or 5 inches. In the field of the panels, 12-inch spacing is fine, but make sure you drive the screws into a stud. To finish the joints, all thatís required is to apply self-sticking fiberglass tape that you press into place over the seams of the panels. No joint compound is needed because the entire surface will be covered with tile and grout.

 

Smart tip

FRAMING PREP - BECAUSE CEMENT BOARD IS MUCH LESS FLEXIBLE THAN DRYWALL, IT CAN CRACK WHEN SCREWED TO UNEVEN STUDS. SHIM ANY PROBLEM WALL STUDS.

 

Step 1. Backer board is cut the same way as drywall. First mark the panel; then score this line using a sharp utility knife and a straightedge guide. Break the panel against your knee or over a piece of scrap wood placed on the floor.

 

Step 2. Once the panel is broken, place it on its edge and cut through the fiberglass mesh on the back using a utility knife. This cut is generally rough and can be smoothed to fit using 80-grit sandpaper.

 

Step 3. Faucet holes can be cut in backer board with an electric drill and a carbide-tipped hole saw. Mark the location using a center punch, and drill slowly.

 

Step 4. Attach the panels to the wall framing with 1Ĺ in. cement-board screws. Drive them every 5 in- around the perimeter and every 12 in. in the field.

 

Step 5. Cover all the joints with fiberglass drywall tape. No joint compound is needed underneath because the tape is self-sticking.

 

ESTIMATING QUANTITIES FOR DRYWALL

Quality drywalling requires accurate estimates of material quantities. Nothing breaks your stride like having to run out to the store for materials once youíve started a job. Here are some tips on how to estimate materials.

joint Compound: Youíll need roughly a gallon for every 100 square feet of drywall.

Joint Tape: To finish 500 square feet of drywall, figure on using 400 feet of tape.

Nails/Screws: This figure can vary depending on stud spacing (walls framed 16 inches on center require more fasteners than those framed at 24 inches) and on your nail or screw schedule (panels attached with adhesive require fewer fasteners). Figure on one fastener for every square foot of drywall on your job. For ex ample, an 18 x 18-foot ceiling (324 square feet) will require about 320 screws or

nails. Because 1 pound of 1ľ -inch drywall screws contains about 320 screws, youíll - need a pound of screws for every 320 square feet of drywall.

Drywall Panels: Estimating how much drywall youíll need to cover a room is a matter of square footage. Calculate the wall surface of the room, and divide that figure by the square footage of the panels you intend to use. For instance, a 4 x 8-foot panel measures 32 square feet. If you have a 1,000-square-foot room, youíll need just over 31 panels. Because they come in units of two, order 32 panels.

When estimating square footage, donít subtract the door or window areas (except for bay windows or unusually large doors), because youíll need extra for mistakes.

 

 

 

 

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